Amalfi Coast
 The Amalfi Coast, on the southern side of the Sorrento Peninsula, is a “must do” when chartering the southern Italian coast and the Naples Bay Islands. I have been to the Sorrento Peninsula several times, however, last spring I had an in-depth tour of this area including the towns of Amalfi, Positano, and Ravello, from a native that left me anxious to return as soon as possible.
As a worldwide Yacht Charter Broker, I have a Maritime Agent to help with charters in their locale, in each major cruising area worldwide. We stopped on a yacht inspection tour of Italy last spring to visit with our Agent, who showed us the absolute delights of the Sorrento Peninsula, and what should be seen on a crewed yacht charter along the Amalfi Coast.
An important first note is that this coastline is quite straight without any natural sheltered harbors, and the normal seas roll in from the south, which while Amalfi has a small dockage area, actual overnight dockage, due to sea conditions, is never a guarantee. Luckily, Capri is only 9 nautical miles off of the tip of the Sorrento Peninsula and in Capri, there is overnight dockage.
Day trips over to the Amalfi Coast are just a short cruise from Capri, if overnight dockage is not possible along the Amalfi Coast.
The dramatic stretch of The Amalfi Coast, which links Positano to Vietri Sul Mare is home to the spectacular towns of Positano, Amalfi and Ravello, and is marked by steep rugged mountain cliffs 700 meters high that drop dramatically into the deep blue Mediterranean Sea.
These mesmerizing views are always available, whether viewed from land or from sea. Small picturesque fishing villages are scattered in clusters, upon the front face of the mountain.
Villa’s, churches and corner shops are built out of the rock, and on top of each other climbing up the mountain from the water's edge, surrounded by kept gardens and terraces, narrow pebbled streets and endless steps. Lemon trees, grape and olive vines are everywhere exuding the perfume of nature.
 Hotel San Pietro
Just outside of Positano, between Positano and Amalfi is the Hotel San Pietro with a very small rock quay for disembarking guests by ship’s tender to stop for a drink or dinner. The hotel elevator takes you from the sunning area next to this small quay up to the main areas of the hotel, with spectacular views from their inside restaurant behind the wall of glass or from the adjoining exterior patio.
The town of Positano tumbles down the hillside to the beach front. Within the town are narrow winding walking streets filled with little cafes and shops with goods ranging from crafts to couture, and, of course, shops filled with handmade local Capri Sandals, made famous by Jackie Onassis. The walking streets spill out onto the beach, ringed by cafes, and beached brightly colored fishing dinghies.
At the mouth of Valle dei Mulini (Mills' Valley), Amalfi overlooks the sea with its characteristic set of white houses on the rocks, narrow streets among arches, and ancient towers to guard the town.
Amalfi is a very picturesque town, characterized by enchanting panoramic views and cliffs rising sheer from the sea: a real Eden witha gentle climate, delightful beaches, and buildings clinging to the rocky slope. The architectural value of its monuments, the beauty of the landscape and of the seaside, its traditions and food has made it an incomparable place, so that Renato Fucini said: “when people from Amalfi will go to Paradise, it will be an ordinary day for them”.
Be sure to wander through the Cathedral, with the alternating color marble slab façade, which is an internationally well known outstanding example of Italian Gothic Architecture.
Another town, not to be missed, is Ravello, perched up high above in the mountain side, overlooking the coastline. For the hardy, there is a path, really a series of steps, from Amalfi to Ravello. If you only have time to take the path one way, it is best to try walking down from Ravello to Amalfi rather than vice versa. Otherwise, local taxis are available to take you back and forth from the coast to Ravello.
 Ravello sits on a rocky spur astride the Dragon's and Regina’s Valleys. It is situated in a more elevated position than the other pearls of the Amalfi Coast and boasts exceptional vistas.
The writer Andre Gide insists “Ravello is nearer to the sky than it is to the shore”, and this small, beautiful village has attracted many famous people over the centuries. The first one to be astonished by such beauty was the writer Giovanni Boccaccio who quotes it in his Decameron. That was in 1350 and since then countless other artists, writers and celebrities have been enchanted by Ravello. Sites to visit include the cathedral of St Pantaleone, Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone.
 The main piazza anchors the center of the town. The gateway to the Villa Rufolo is tucked away on one side of this piazza.
Villa Rufolo, with beautiful gardens, is now open to the public for a price, but more importantly, this is the home of the Ravello Concert Society that has a schedule of concerts throughout the year.
If you are lucky enough to be visiting during the Ravello Concert Series, you will find yourself surrounded by a garden once loved by Wagner, on a terrace hanging over the sea, while music echoes across the valley.
The Sorrento Peninsula is home to hundreds of lemon orchards, with trees planted in tiers down the hillside. Depending on when you visit, you may find the air perfumed with lemon essence from the many  blossoms, or see the trees covered with netting to hold the heavy lemon harvest while maturing. No matter what, you will find the famous local liquor, called Limoncello, and many products including soaps and lotions made from the local lemon harvest.
This is also an area well known for pottery, as the little town of Vietri sul Mare is tucked away at the beginning of the Sorrento Peninsula. Here in an enclave of artists making and painting the pottery known as Vietri ceramics. For just as true champagne must be from the French area of Champagne, true Vietri Ceramics must be from the Italian town of Vietri.
This interest in producing ceramics is seen all along the Amalfi Coast. We stopped in a factoria just outside of Positano for ceramics and ordered our own hand painted urn choosing a famous style indicative of the area, painted with a personal signature, which was shipped to our home as a memento of this outstanding area.
For more information on the Sorrento Peninsula, Amalfi Coast, and for information on crewed yacht charters in this area, please call 800-868-5913 or email me with your questions
written by Missy Johnston
© 2009 Missy Johnston |
