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Camogli Fishing Boats |
I am sure you have heard of the French Riviera. Did you know that the Italian Riviera starts at the Italian border, where the French Riviera stops and is a lovely cruising location? Known also as the Ligurian Coast of Italy, this area is home to both high society and quaint little fishing villages, and has a charm all its own.
Here at Northrop and Johnson Yacht Charters, we have cruised along this coastline many times, and are no stranger to the whole area. Best accessed by a flight into Genoa following is a suggested itinerary for exploring this coastline.
Fly into Genoa to board your yacht. The airport is only a short taxi ride from the main marinas. After you meet your crew and view the itinerary, explore Genoa, the reputed home of Christopher Columbus.
The captain will arrange a tour of this legendary maritime gem including a trip to La Spianata de Castrelleto for an amazing view of the city. Stroll the labyrinthine old city streets past medieval churches to see the Columbus House and the Renaissance palazzo on the Via Garibaldi. Then walk to the magnificent Piazza Mateo, visit the superbly restored Palazzo Ducale, the impressive Church of Gesu and the majestic black and white-striped façade of the Cathedral of San Lorenzo.
Genoa has been a city of great prosperity in past centuries and the architecture and many palazzo’s still standing today, attest to those periods of great trading wealth.
In the morning cruise to Camogli. Situated at the edge of the large promontory and nature reserve known as the Portofino Peninsula, it has always been a town tied to the water, with a great number of the populace making their living from the sea. The name Camogli is a contraction of Casa Mogli (Wives' House) from the days when the women ran the town while the men spent months at sea with the town's huge fishing fleet. Today, the fleet is much smaller and the men have resumed control of civic affairs.
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Camogli Beach and Castello |
Piles of fishing nets filled with sleeping cats cover the docks along the massive 17th century seawall. Multicolor houses and remarkably deceptive trompe-l'oeil frescoes mark this appealing harbor community, perhaps as beautiful as Portofino but without the glamour.
When exploring on foot, don't miss the boat-filled second harbor, which is reached by ducking under a narrow archway at the northern end of the first beach front. At the end of the harbor, built into sheer rock is the Castello della Dragonara which houses the Acqario (Aquarium).
In the morning, sail to enchanting Portofino, a national monument and playground of the rich and famous. One of the most photographed villages along the coast, with a decidedly romantic and affluent aura, Portofino has long been a popular destination for foreigners. Once an ancient Roman colony and taken by the Republic of Genoa in 1229, it has also been ruled by the French, English, Spanish, and Austrians, as well as marauding bands of 16th-century pirates.
Elite British tourists first flocked to the lush harbor in the mid-1800s. Stroll around the promenade between the harbor and brightly colored shops. Walk to Punta del Capo, shop at exclusive boutiques and relax with a coffee at one of the Piazzetta’s cafes, watching life pass you by. Enjoy panoramic views of the sparkling bay from the Church of San Giorgio, the medieval fortress of Castello di San Giorgio and the Punta del Capo lighthouse.
After breakfast, it’s a short cruise to Santa Margherita Ligure. A beautiful old resort town favored by well-to-do Italians, Santa Margherita Ligure has everything a Riviera playground should have, which are plenty of palm trees, attractive hotels and cafés. Some of the older buildings here are still decorated on the outside with the trompe-l'oeil frescoes typical of this part of the Riviera.
In the morning cruise to the Cinqueterre, which takes its name from the five small villages - Corniglia, Manarola, Monterosso al Mare, Riomaggiore and Vernazza, that defiantly cling to the inhospitably rugged Ligurian coastline. They are, and have been for many centuries, practically inaccessible by land due to the harsh, steep terrain which juts up at their backs. The best way to see them is to dinghy from the yacht to the base of each village. Each village has a little harbor or basin, just large enough for visiting dinghies and the small local fishing boats of the region.
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Vernazza |
Each of the Cinqueterre towns has something different to offer. Monterosso has the most famous beach, a 16th-century Capucchin monastery with some fine paintings, and an ancient castle. There are great views of the other towns in Corniglia, along with a more secluded beach. Vernazza, perhaps the most dramatic, juts straight out over the water, with crashing waves below to the left and a postage stamp boat harbor to the right. High above are the ramparts of a ruined medieval tower. Riomaggiore is hopelessly picturesque, a beehive of crumbling pastel-colored houses tumbling down to the horseshoe-shaped dock, and great snorkeling. Manarola also has excellent swimming off the rocks. An authentic fishing village, it is probably the most genuine of the "lands."
Another way to see the Cinqueterre is to hike the many trails that join them, along with the goats, sheep and anything or anyone else that is traveling from town to town. You may want to come ashore at one town, and hike to the next, while your yacht shadows you from the water, to pick you up at the next town.
Enjoy a relaxing breakfast before sailing to La Spezia, a stunning city with a beautiful sea that blends with the nearby mountains. The streets are full of bergamotto trees, and next to the beach there are unique, well maintained gardens with unusual plants. There are many yacht building companies in this area, which you will see along the harbor and coastline.
Arrive at the village of Portovenere, a picturesque town in the bay of La Spezia, which occupies the promontory of Cape San Pietro. Its architecture shows many signs of its medieval past. The town was conquered by Genoa in 1113, and was turned into a strategic stronghold for dominating the far east of Liguria.
Its dual character, military and marine, can be seen from the way the town is laid out around two centers - one on the promontory which was connected to the old port, and the center to the west where the old Genoese fortified town stood.
To commemorate their conquest of the town, in 1130, the Genoese had the church of San Lorenzo constructed in the same Gothic-Renaissance style as Genoa cathedral. In front of Portovenere is the island of Palmaria, connected to the land via ferries from La Spezia, Lerici and Portovenere.
Disembark at Portovenere to continue on the land portion of your trip, or to head for the airport to fly home.
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Portovenere |
For more information on Italy as a cruising destination and yachts that are available for charter in this location, go to information on Yacht Charters in Italy.
written by Missy Johnston
Northrop and Johnson Worldwide Yacht Charters
© January 2010 |
