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Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Le Club 55, San Tropez; To See and Be Seen

Written by Polly Barnes, N&J Yacht Charters onsite writer/researcher

Le Club 55, St. Tropez, France
Lounge area at Club 55

Anyone who has spent time along the Cote d'Azur knows the widest, sandiest beaches are found along the peninsula of St. Tropez. Each beach commands a loyal following, but those who want to see and be seen at one of the area's "historical" and storied venues, need to splurge at Le Club 55 on La Plage de Pampelonne. Yes, it will set you back, but the setting can not be matched. From the parking area (filled with Bentleys and Ferrari's), a path of overgrown bamboo leads visitors to the Provencal beach bungalow that has been extended with white canopies covering the beach bar and dining area of white covered benches. Guests from yachts, anchored off shore, follow the grey wooden pier that extends from the water to individual reed-covered sun bathing areas, and private conversation settees arranged throughout the natural growth of the tamarisk trees. The elite take bronzing breaks while sipping Cristal and watching stiletto-healed beauties re-arrange their Vuitton beach bags.

The history of Le Club 55 is intertwined with the mythical origins of St. Tropez. Brigitte Bardot said it was her favorite bar and it's no wonder why...


Restaurant at Le Club 55 in St. Tropez France
The Restaurant at Club 55

Bernard De Colmont , adventurer, explorer and filmmaker, who,"en passant", had acquired a certain fame in the thirties by kayaking down the Colorado river with his wife, no little feat at the time, spent his summer months in a small Cabanon on Pampelonne beach. When, in 1955, Director Roger Vadim and his cast from the movie "Et Dieu Crea la Femme", starring Ms Bardot, landed on the shores of the little fishing village, it was at Mr. and Mrs De Colmont's Cabanon that they would take their meals. With the success of the film, the De Colmont's opened a seasonal beach club where celebrities and others could come and relax away from the Parisian heat. It was named Club 55 in accordance with the year of its creation. Many today come to emulate, but few know its story.

The Boardwalk coming from the beach at Le Club 55 in St. Tropez, France
Board walk coming from the beach

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Monday, July 20, 2009

Bastille Day, Cannes and the Festival d'Art Pyrotechnique

Written by Polly Barnes, N&J Yacht Charters onsite writer/researcher

Festival d'Art Pyrotechnique de Cannes
July 14th, 2009: The lights along the horizon are of the dozens of anchored yachts

Like a child I, along with thousands of others, oohed and ahhed as the darkened skies over the Bay of Cannes lit up with dabs and splashes of color that seemingly danced with choreographed precision to accompanied music piped along the Croissette. Cannes begins the annual Festival d'Art Pyrotechnique competition each July 14th Bastille Day. Participating countries vie for the top prize and this year five countries will showcase their creativity throughout the summer.


Bastille Day, Cannes and the Festival d'Art Pyrotechnique
The start of the July 14th display

This is no ordinary fireworks display. It's pure artistry with a carefully choreographed show of lights that are rhythmically coordinated to explode with the tempo of various musical pieces. An 8 person jury judges the "show" via theme originality, musical quality, colors, synchronization and shooting rhythm. Thousands of visitors line the Croisette for each display, so it's best to arrive early for a front row view to best see the layered heights of lights as they are ignited from several pontoons along the bay. Of course, the best vantage point is from a yacht, dozens of which vie for the best anchorage behind the 300 meter viewing area of sea-based "shooting" pontoons.

This year the schedule includes: July 14, Italy; July 21, Spain; July 29, Poland; August 7, and France; August 15. While the 30 minute fireworks display usually commences at 10 p.m., all displays are followed by concerts. On August 24th the prized country/group is announced and for the ceremony yet another fireworks display, from the Italian group Panzera, concludes the season.

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Friday, July 17, 2009

St. Tropez's Best Secret Yachtsman's Hideaway

Written by Polly Barnes, N&J Yacht Charters onsite writer/researcher

The Hotel Sube, St. Tropez
The Hotel Sube

It's a good year to visit St. Tropez. This Provencal mecca of the privileged has attracted the elite and those who want to rub their shoulders for years, often creating a harbor front too crowded to enjoy. With the economic climate affecting all pockets of society, St. Tropez is a bit quieter this year. The small sea-front village is still peopled by visitors speaking dozens of languages, but it's more pleasurable to stroll along the narrow alley lanes and harbor front, still filled to capacity with gleaming yachts tied to the quay.


Hotel Sube Bar, St. Tropez
The Bar

One of the best kept secrets of the harbor front is the bar of the Hotel Sube, strategically situated behind the statue of the Bailly De Suffren , a local noble man who, in the 17th century, acquired great fame as a free-booter captain, terrorizing British merchant ships in the Indian Ocean. Once you have located the monument, take the covered alley behind it. Inside, after a few yards and on your right, you will find the entrance door for the Hotel Sube. Take a quick leap up the stairs, pass the reception and enter the bar. Memorabilia of ships and yachts greet you wherever the eye rests. Behind the counter a fabulous display of whiskeys and other fine spirits reflect on the great numbers of yacht races and world cruises that have been won or lost on the other side of the same counter. The patina is intact and figures like Ted Turner, Dennis Conner, John Bertrand, and countless anonymous sailors have had there debriefing in this mythical room. A fire place is usually lit in the winter and a hand full of small tables on the balcony can also be used to enjoy the harbor bustle from the shoulders of Monsieur de Suffren himself....

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Tuesday, July 14, 2009

L'Escale Restaurant, Cap Brun a "Must Do" Charter Stop

Written by Polly Barnes, N&J Yacht Charters onsite writer/researcher

Renoir's Dejeuner des Canotiers
Renoir's "Dejeuner des Canotiers"

I sometimes remind myself that I don't know what I don't know. Like an epiphany I realized the opposite is just as valid after visiting L'Escale Restaurant on Cap Brun. This corner of the Cote not only provides a rare respite from a Riviera crowded with glamorous yachts and visitors seeking a sneak into a world of the ritz and bronzed, it provides a glimpse into what the Riviera was like when cozy fishing villages first harkened British and northern European travelers to experience a warmer, simpler way of life. So, what I know I know is that if the past is any indication, the authentic charm of Cap Brun and L'Escale Restaurant won't last forever.

Sunset view from the terrace of the restaurant, looking east at Anse Mejan and the hamlet of the same name.
Sunset view from the terrace of the restaurant, looking east at Anse Mejan and the hamlet of the same name.



The hamlet of Cap Brun at the base of the promontory of Fort Cap Brun. The awning in the foreground is the one sheltering the terrace of  L'Escale.
The hamlet of Cap Brun at the base of the promontory of Fort Cap Brun. The awning in the foreground is the one sheltering the terrace of L'Escale.

Nestled in the lee side of the mistral just outside the bay of Toulon and its rim of forts and redoutes, under the old fort of CapBrun and looking east at the Anse Mejan, a clutter of old fishermen houses accommodate a small restaurant, reminiscent of Renoir's "Dejeuner des Canotiers". Grilled fresh fish, Soupe de Poisson and its "rouille" (one of the Cote's best, according to those in the know) are served foot steps away from the lapping blue waters of the bay. Sheltered from the mid-day sun by an awning of reeds and lit up at night by strings of simple light bulbs, L'Escale definitely is one of the best remaining "native" restaurants of this part of the world. It is accessible by boat, by anchoring in the bay and going ashore at the small stone pier, or by car by following the signs for Mourillon, Cap Brun and the Sentier du Littoral, after a very narrow street. Parking is amply available on the top of the steps leading to the waters edge.

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Monday, July 13, 2009

Fayence Gliding Field and the Moulin de la Camandoule Restaurant

Written by Polly Barnes, N&J Yacht Charters onsite writer/researcher

Ultralight and N&J Writer Polly Barnes
Ultralight and N&J Writer Polly Barnes

Last year I took to the skies over Provence - a private "lesson" flying an ultralight! While I didn't actually take the "rudder", the half-hour ride offered an exhilarating birds-eye view of the Var region of Provence, from Fayence to the Cote! This treat is easily accessible to anybody cruising the Riviera. The Fayence-Tourrettes gliding field, which has an international reputation and is open 365 days a year, is about a 30 minute car ride from Cannes. Fayence is well known by gliding afficionados for its high altitude flights "in the wave", and as a starting point for long distance gliding flights from the "Alpes du sud" and even to the French and Swiss Alps.

You can arrange an initiation gliding lesson or a half-hour trip in a glider or ultralight by calling 0494 76 00 68.

Camandoule Aqueduct
Camandoule Aqueduct



Moulin de la Camandoule
Moulin de la Camandoule

After your flight, dine at the nearby Moulin de la Camandoule, an ancient olive oil mill transformed into a stylish hotel and restaurant. The mill has existed since the 15th century and the aqueduct, which brings the water of the Camandoule to the mill, dates from the roman era. You can still see the large wheel of the mill at the entrance to the restaurant. Call for reservations (04 94 76 00 84) as its reputation for gourmets, along with its bucolic ambiance, makes it a popular place to dine. You'll enjoy your dinner, prepared by chef Philipe Choisy, who has officiated there for eight years, on a terrace surrounded by the scent of provencal flowers and waving poplars growing along the nearby Camandoule river.

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Friday, July 10, 2009

Gorges du Verdo, Spectacular Side Trip from the Cote d' Azur

Written by Polly Barnes, N&J Yacht Charters onsite writer/researcher

Gorges du Verdon
Gorges du Verdon

If you're not afraid of heights, consider a trip to the Gorges du Verdon, the world's second largest gorge that forms a border between the Var region of Provence and Alpes de Haute Provence. While it's not a short trip by car from the Cote, the spectacular view is well worth the effort. The 25 km long drive takes about an hour to complete and there are several viewing platforms along the route to view the river canyon, which is as deep as 700 meters in some places. At the end of the canyon the Verdon river flows into the artificially created Lac de Sainte-Croix.



Gorges du Verdon
Gorges du Verdon

Moustiers Sainte Marie, or simply Moustiers lies at the western entrance to the Gorges. The small, quaint village is a pottery center, and is especially known for its faience pottery. The village clings to the side of a limestone cliff and is seemingly dissected by a spring and waterfall which falls directly out of the center of town.

Moustiers Sainte Marie
Moustiers Sainte Marie

As you wander along the narrow lanes, look above the center of the town where a star hangs suspended between two cliffs. It has an interesting story. According to local lore a knight of the area, who was held prisoner by the Saracens during the Crusades, vowed to hang a star over his village upon returning. Apparently, he arrived home safely. The current star is one of many that have been replaced, when needed, over the centuries.

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Thursday, July 9, 2009

Frejus, France and Roman Ruins

Written by Polly Barnes, our on site writer/researcher

Frejus, France
Frejus, France

La Cote d'Azur and Provence is laden with historical architecture so travelers with a penchant for the past, and in particular for viewing Roman ruins, should consider a visit to Frejus, located a short 35 km from Cannes. While the center of town is busy and compact with pedestrian streets and shops, several well preserved Roman ruins are situated near the city center.



Frejus, france
Frejus, France

Frejus was founded in the first century BC and was an important stop on the Aurelian Way. In 30 BC, the area became a retirement center for veterans of the 8th Legion. At about the same time Octavian brought ships captured at Actium to the area and began building the port that was to become the second largest Roman port after Ostia.

There are several must see ruins including The Aqueduct with its massive pillars, which can be viewed along the Avenue du Quinzieme Corps and the N7, between the Avenue des Aqueducs and the D437 roundabout. Next, there are ruins of the Roman theatre located at the Rue du Theatre Romain, which are easily viewed from behind a locked gate.

However, the highlight of a visit to Frejus is the Amphitheater, located at the west side of the town on Rue Henri Vadon. The oval arena seated 12,000 people and is only a bit smaller than the amphitheaters at Nimes and Arles. As you walk along the arched walkway, you can see the ambitious plans for its full restoration.

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Monday, April 6, 2009

Consider Yacht Charter in the French Riviera, South of France (SOF)

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Monte Carlo

Who hasn't heard of the French Riviera? However have you considered this as a yacht charter location? The South of France, known as SOF, offers both High Style and lovely quaint coastal fishing villages, with villas tucked away at every turn. Sit quayside right in the middle of the harbor of San Tropez, having dinner on the top deck under the stars, watching the harbor front come alive with night life. Anchor off of Cap du Antibes, take the ship's tender to the private dock and lunch at the Eden Roc. Spend a day sunning and swimming in the islands off of Cannes.


Monte Carlo Casino




Musee Picasso

Spend a week cruising along this coast from San Tropez to Menton, and slip over the border into Monaco and dock in the heart of Monte Carlo. Black tie one night enjoying the famous casino in Monte Carlo to Capri's and sandals exploring Villefranche. There is always something to see and do. For history take a side trip to the tiny walled medieval city of Eze, or tour the Rothschild Villa and gardens, now open as a museum. For beaches, visit the famous Pampelonne Beach in San Tropez for sunning and people watching. For culture, visit the Musee Picasso housed in the 12th century Chateau Grimaldi. And for shopping, anywhere along the coastline, from the open air market in Antibes, to the couture shops in San Tropez. And for dining, consider perhaps the restaurant Louis XV in Monte Carlo and fabulous Soupe de Poisson in Villefranche.



Antibes, France: Items at the market

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